A story with a logbook-style report from our sailing trip through the Great Salma Strait in Kandalaksha Bay, White Sea.
Short video:
6 days, 6 islands, 50 miles.
Although I had deliberately decided not to attempt a major expedition, the trip ended up being even shorter than I had originally planned.
The reason I avoided a longer voyage was simple: the catamaran had undergone a lot of modifications, it's an old boat, and you never really know what to expect. The last time I sailed her on the White Sea was nine years ago. Back then both of us—you could say the boat and I—were younger, stronger, and much more fearless.
The original plan was to test the boat in the sheltered waters of Great Salma Strait and then continue to Chupa Bay, to Cheremshikha Island, where some friends were camping.
Things didn't quite go as planned.
First, we lost an entire day because our foot pump failed. Then we decided against sailing into open water in what, for us, was already a fairly strong wind—around 15 knots—especially on the first real sailing day, when I wanted to inspect the boat carefully. After that we were met by long periods of calm weather and headwinds. Eventually we realized our campsite was fantastic and that Great Salma itself was a wonderful place for day sailing, so we simply stayed there for the rest of the trip.
We practiced handling the catamaran. Leon finally figured out how everything worked and even learned to sail the boat single-handed. We explored the islands, chatted with local residents, ate fresh cod, learned a few songs with a guitar, and simply enjoyed a great vacation.
Distance: 2.5 nautical miles.
Wind: up to 5 knots.
12:30 — Wind increased to 10–15 knots along the shore. Waves up to 0.5 m with occasional whitecaps. Felt intimidating. Low tide. Air temperature 18°C.
22:18 — Returned from Nilmoguba. We had gone back to the base to get a new foot pump because ours had worn through and barely worked anymore.
On the way there we sailed under one reef in 8–10 knots of wind, practicing maneuvers and experimenting with balancing the boat using the daggerboard.
It worked surprisingly well. By adjusting only the daggerboard position we managed to steer the catamaran without using the rudder, eventually finding the neutral balance point. After that the rudder carried almost no load and steering became effortless.
Entering the bay we encountered a strong opposing tidal current and overfalls. Waves reached about one meter while the wind died completely. We had to use the outboard motor to make progress. The opposing current was roughly five knots.
We tied up at the Polar Circle pier. They gave us another foot pump, although its hose connection wasn't very reliable. They promised to find a better one the next day.
On the return trip the wind eased, so we shook out the reefs and, with the tidal current helping us, almost flew home on a close and broad reach. The overfalls had shifted away from the strait entrance, allowing us to avoid them.
We continued experimenting with the daggerboard balance. The system definitely works—we just need to test it in stronger winds.
Distance today: 5.3 nm
Total: 7.2 nm
11:45 — Calm with steady drizzle. Inside the tent it was 24°C.
14:40 — Light breeze. Dry with clouds. Barometric pressure dropped slightly from 1035 to 1033 hPa.
17:30 — Motored to Nilmoguba. No wind at all.
We mixed a fresh fuel batch and the outboard immediately began running perfectly. Yesterday's old fuel had caused occasional misfires.
High tide, no overfalls.
Picked up a new foot pump from Grisha Anikin.
Returned under power by 21:30. Complete calm.
Distance today: 3.2 nm (all under power)
Total: 10.4 nm
10:30 — Departed for Kosyan Island.
Wind around 5 knots, beating upwind. By 13:00 it had freshened to 8 knots.
Wave height reached about half a meter in the middle of the strait.
Arrived at Kosyan around 14:30. By then the wind had increased to 10 knots with gusts up to 15.
Near Kosyan we accidentally lost a sleeping pad overboard but successfully recovered it, giving us a useful "man overboard" practice.
The direct route was only 6.5 miles, but because of tacking...
Distance sailed: 14.1 nm
Total: 24.5 nm
Wind 10 knots, gusting to 15.
We initially sailed under full canvas but reefed almost immediately.
We decided to pass around Lushov Island through the inner channel.
A rain squall arrived, so we landed briefly on Kozhameykin Island.
Interestingly, the barometer remained steady.
After the rain the wind disappeared completely, so we motored the rest of the way to Kokoiha.
The return trip was on a broad reach around the outside of Lushov Island in open water.
Wind dropped to only 3 knots, boat speed just under 3 knots.
Near Kosyan the wind died altogether, and we finished under power.
Distance today: 6.4 nm (3 nm under power)
Total: 30.9 nm
Around 14:00 we motored toward the western exit of the strait.
At about 3 knots we covered roughly four miles before running out of fuel.
We landed on Lushov Island, stretched our legs, refueled, and by then the wind had risen to about 5 knots.
We continued under sail to Pokormyazhny Island (also known locally as Mokhnaty or Medvezhy—depending on whom you ask).
Had lunch there and explored the island.
The wind faded completely again.
Returned to Kosyan under power at roughly 4 knots.
Distance today: 10 nm
Total: 40.5 nm
Atmospheric pressure remained unusually high—around 1050 hPa—and the locals warned us that a storm was probably coming.
Coincidentally, we were already planning to leave.
A light following wind of 2–4 knots gave us almost a perfect run.
We experimented with tacking but gained very little speed while greatly reducing our progress toward the destination.
Instead we rigged the sails wing-and-wing and even spread the jib with a paddle. Boat speed stayed around 3 knots.
After rounding the headland we bore away onto a broad reach.
Near the entrance to the bay we met a strong opposing current, so we started the engine to help the sails and entered easily.
It was low tide, making the slipway inaccessible.
Instead we found a convenient landing spot on the right shore with vehicle access and dismantled the boat there.
Distance today: 7.4 nm
Grand total: 47.9 nm
While packing up, the barometer finally started falling, and my watch even sounded a couple of storm warnings.
The rain began only after we were already driving home.
A fitting end to the trip.
Short video:
6 days, 6 islands, 50 miles.
Although I had deliberately decided not to attempt a major expedition, the trip ended up being even shorter than I had originally planned.
The reason I avoided a longer voyage was simple: the catamaran had undergone a lot of modifications, it's an old boat, and you never really know what to expect. The last time I sailed her on the White Sea was nine years ago. Back then both of us—you could say the boat and I—were younger, stronger, and much more fearless.
The original plan was to test the boat in the sheltered waters of Great Salma Strait and then continue to Chupa Bay, to Cheremshikha Island, where some friends were camping.
Things didn't quite go as planned.
First, we lost an entire day because our foot pump failed. Then we decided against sailing into open water in what, for us, was already a fairly strong wind—around 15 knots—especially on the first real sailing day, when I wanted to inspect the boat carefully. After that we were met by long periods of calm weather and headwinds. Eventually we realized our campsite was fantastic and that Great Salma itself was a wonderful place for day sailing, so we simply stayed there for the rest of the trip.
We practiced handling the catamaran. Leon finally figured out how everything worked and even learned to sail the boat single-handed. We explored the islands, chatted with local residents, ate fresh cod, learned a few songs with a guitar, and simply enjoyed a great vacation.
Ship's Log
July 23, 2020
05:00 — Launched at high tide from the slipway in the village of Nilmoguba. Sailed to Olenevsky Island. First checked out a campsite nearby that turned out to be unsuitable, then settled on a sandy beach along the spit on the island's northeastern side.Distance: 2.5 nautical miles.
Wind: up to 5 knots.
12:30 — Wind increased to 10–15 knots along the shore. Waves up to 0.5 m with occasional whitecaps. Felt intimidating. Low tide. Air temperature 18°C.
22:18 — Returned from Nilmoguba. We had gone back to the base to get a new foot pump because ours had worn through and barely worked anymore.
On the way there we sailed under one reef in 8–10 knots of wind, practicing maneuvers and experimenting with balancing the boat using the daggerboard.
It worked surprisingly well. By adjusting only the daggerboard position we managed to steer the catamaran without using the rudder, eventually finding the neutral balance point. After that the rudder carried almost no load and steering became effortless.
Entering the bay we encountered a strong opposing tidal current and overfalls. Waves reached about one meter while the wind died completely. We had to use the outboard motor to make progress. The opposing current was roughly five knots.
We tied up at the Polar Circle pier. They gave us another foot pump, although its hose connection wasn't very reliable. They promised to find a better one the next day.
On the return trip the wind eased, so we shook out the reefs and, with the tidal current helping us, almost flew home on a close and broad reach. The overfalls had shifted away from the strait entrance, allowing us to avoid them.
We continued experimenting with the daggerboard balance. The system definitely works—we just need to test it in stronger winds.
Distance today: 5.3 nm
Total: 7.2 nm
July 24
02:00 — Low tide. Calm. 15°C.11:45 — Calm with steady drizzle. Inside the tent it was 24°C.
14:40 — Light breeze. Dry with clouds. Barometric pressure dropped slightly from 1035 to 1033 hPa.
17:30 — Motored to Nilmoguba. No wind at all.
We mixed a fresh fuel batch and the outboard immediately began running perfectly. Yesterday's old fuel had caused occasional misfires.
High tide, no overfalls.
Picked up a new foot pump from Grisha Anikin.
Returned under power by 21:30. Complete calm.
Distance today: 3.2 nm (all under power)
Total: 10.4 nm
July 25
Packed camp and loaded the boat.10:30 — Departed for Kosyan Island.
Wind around 5 knots, beating upwind. By 13:00 it had freshened to 8 knots.
Wave height reached about half a meter in the middle of the strait.
Arrived at Kosyan around 14:30. By then the wind had increased to 10 knots with gusts up to 15.
Near Kosyan we accidentally lost a sleeping pad overboard but successfully recovered it, giving us a useful "man overboard" practice.
The direct route was only 6.5 miles, but because of tacking...
Distance sailed: 14.1 nm
Total: 24.5 nm
July 26
After lunch we headed toward Kokoiha.Wind 10 knots, gusting to 15.
We initially sailed under full canvas but reefed almost immediately.
We decided to pass around Lushov Island through the inner channel.
A rain squall arrived, so we landed briefly on Kozhameykin Island.
Interestingly, the barometer remained steady.
After the rain the wind disappeared completely, so we motored the rest of the way to Kokoiha.
The return trip was on a broad reach around the outside of Lushov Island in open water.
Wind dropped to only 3 knots, boat speed just under 3 knots.
Near Kosyan the wind died altogether, and we finished under power.
Distance today: 6.4 nm (3 nm under power)
Total: 30.9 nm
July 27
Morning calm.Around 14:00 we motored toward the western exit of the strait.
At about 3 knots we covered roughly four miles before running out of fuel.
We landed on Lushov Island, stretched our legs, refueled, and by then the wind had risen to about 5 knots.
We continued under sail to Pokormyazhny Island (also known locally as Mokhnaty or Medvezhy—depending on whom you ask).
Had lunch there and explored the island.
The wind faded completely again.
Returned to Kosyan under power at roughly 4 knots.
Distance today: 10 nm
Total: 40.5 nm
Atmospheric pressure remained unusually high—around 1050 hPa—and the locals warned us that a storm was probably coming.
Coincidentally, we were already planning to leave.
July 28
Packed up and headed back to Nilmoguba.A light following wind of 2–4 knots gave us almost a perfect run.
We experimented with tacking but gained very little speed while greatly reducing our progress toward the destination.
Instead we rigged the sails wing-and-wing and even spread the jib with a paddle. Boat speed stayed around 3 knots.
After rounding the headland we bore away onto a broad reach.
Near the entrance to the bay we met a strong opposing current, so we started the engine to help the sails and entered easily.
It was low tide, making the slipway inaccessible.
Instead we found a convenient landing spot on the right shore with vehicle access and dismantled the boat there.
Distance today: 7.4 nm
Grand total: 47.9 nm
While packing up, the barometer finally started falling, and my watch even sounded a couple of storm warnings.
The rain began only after we were already driving home.
A fitting end to the trip.
